Your Peru Guide

By Jonathan Bell

Superlative filled descriptions of the jungle are a dead cert when discussing your imminent visit to the Amazon with people who have already seen the natural wonder. On the occasions when I mentioned it to friends “you’ll love it”, “it’s a once in a lifetime experience” and “unbelievable” were but three of the responses that played music to my ears.

It is one of the reasons for the mass amount of travelers and backpackers that Peru sees each and every year, and when you get there you realize why. Getting on the boat from the rather impoverished and dirty city of Iquitos you’re almost happy to get away from ‘civilization’ but after any possible contact fades that’s when the real fun begins.

I’ve heard stories of people heading four hours in to the depths of the jungle but one hour it took for the boat carrying myself and my friend to reach our destination in the jungle. Already I was speechless, the landscape is spectacular. I’ve already seen Cusco, Machu Picchu and Colca Canyon that offer similarly breathtaking views but this was something else.

A sea of green and a wall of noise greeted us as we trotted towards our lodge and this was by far the most excited and nervous I’d been since I sat on a plane at Manchester airport heading to my new home in Peru.

Dumping our belongings it was straight out for the first expedition of our four day, three night tour. We headed in to the jungle, unsure as to what exactly to suspect but (in the main) keen to find. A tree swing was first up as we set aside nervousness for childish play-time.

Back we came for some fresh and tasty food, which was the same for every meal in the trip, and then out on a nighttime excursion. Wading down a part of the river we saw the red-eye reflection of caimans, although we never got close enough to see it in the flesh. The sounds were what astounded me though, bullfrogs were making full use of their throats and as you look up at the clear sky you feel like you’re dreaming.

A tarantula woke both me and my companion up that evening as it sprinted across the netting above our beds, making us rather uneasy it must be said. We managed to get a picture of the cheeky chap the next day, not that it made him move house.

It was only day two and the mosquitoes were already making their intentions clear as it felt like I was itching from head to toe, something which would last a few more days yet! Bird-watching was the name of the game for this morning and again we set sail, well paddles. Lily pads and many birds were on offer and, despite being a little early for my tastes, it was another experience to remember.

That day we walked through the jungle aiming for a little village which, following much macheteing, we eventually found. The hardy kids swam through the water to fetch us a boat and across we went, to find – what seemed like – a thriving village. The jungle meat from a tapir looked likely to make a great meal, but we were slightly surprised to see members of the tribe smoking proper cigarettes – not even roll-ups.

That night was met with a tropical thunderstorm, meaning no nighttime excursion. The noise and duration of this storm were surprising and amazing at the same time. Wasn’t so much something that scared me but fascinated me.

A visit to another tribe for ritual dances seemed a bit forced and done for the tourists, much like something I had experienced in Africa, but one thing it did show was that I don’t have a career as a blowgun shooter. Although, I don’t think it’s massively well-paid.

Piranha fishing, a visit to conservation place which had a sloth, a toucan, an anteater, monkeys and an anaconda were still left in store in what was an amazing four days. Possibly the highlight was taking a swimin the Amazon River. You can’t see a thing in there, and alongside knowing that the depth is on average between 20 and 50 metres that can be a worry. But, after our guide took the plunge we followed.

There was still time for a night expedition to find scorpions and bullfrogs before we headed back to the civilization of Iquitos, and then Lima. Without doubt, it is one of the finest four days I will have in my life. People told me that words can’t describe the beauty and grandeur of the jungle, and I can only reiterate that notion. All the pictures in the world can’t give you a taste of what it is like. Mosquito bites are the downside but there are so many reasons why you should visit the Amazon Rainforest yourself.

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Maureen Stanucci

When you start looking into making travel plans, you are likely to be overwhelmed at the number of choices that you have. An important decision to make is going to be whether you want group or private tours.

The main advantage to group tours is the price. Especially if there are only one or two of you traveling, the cost of booking private tours can be quite high. You can stand to save a lot of money by going the group route.

A group package tour will generally be arranged so that you can get to see all the major sites of your country or countries of destination. The downside to this is that you may feel rushed in some areas or not have as much free time as you might like.

Group tours also give you a chance to make new friends and have people to share the experience with. Naturally, this can also be a disadvantage if you are stuck on tours with people that you don’t like. There often ends up being one obnoxious person in the group and, if the tour leader can’t effectively control that person, this can be a huge problem.

The tour leader is another issue as well. Having a great guide can completely make your trip. Having one that’s not so great can make a package tour a real disappointment and leave you feeling like it wasn’t worth the money you saved.

There are some things you can do, however, to help ensure that you make the best choice possible. Definitely take a look at some of the travel review sites to see what people are saying about the companies you are considering. Remember to always read negative reviews with a grain of salt, as it is sometimes more of a question of the expectations the reviewer had than an actual problem with the tour.

Talk to the company and find out what type of passengers they typically have. This can keep you from ending up the only backpacker on a bus full of retired people or vice versa. While there’s no guarantee you’ll get along great with people your own age or from a similar socioeconomic background, you’ll be improving your odds.

Take a look at the itinerary to be sure that there is sufficient downtime built in so you won’t feel like you are being rushed from place to place. Ask about the company’s flexibility if you decide you want to pass up a certain tour along the way. This is also a good time to ask about the refund policies as well. Some companies are quite amenable to using part of the money you have spent on a trek to Machu Picchu, for example, towards taking the train there if you decide you aren’t up to hiking.

Rather than take a complete group package tour, consider booking part group tours and part private tours. Use a private guide for the really important destinations, such as Machu Picchu. This allows you to get the most out of the experience, as you will be able to hear really well and the guide can cater the tour to your interests.

For other destinations, such as Colca Canyon or Lake Titicaca, there’s no real reason to take a private tour. You will save money by going with a group and probably get just as much out of it. With tours such as the Cusco City Tour and the Sacred Valley Tour, it will depend on the number of people in your group. If you are just a couple, it may not be worth the cost to have a private tour. However, once you get up to about four people or more, the private option will not cost that much more per person.

Prices of tours in South America, particularly in countries like Peru and Bolivia, tend to be a lot less than you might have thought. Therefore, it’s always worthwhile to ask for both group and private tour prices.

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Danielle Lane

Thanks to its hugely varied landscape and environment, and rich cultural diversity, Peru’s cuisine has shot to fame as one of the world’s most important gastronomical centers. People are visiting Peru to sample its food in increasing numbers, South American restaurants are full with Peruvian chefs and Peruvian restaurants are springing up in cosmopolitan cities around the world.

And now the flavors of this gastronomic superpower have been voted into the top five cuisines of the world, alongside such undisputed stalwarts as France and Italy.

Most recently, on March 23, 2011 the Organization of American States (OAS) honored Peru with the “Cultural Patrimony of the Americas Award” for the country’s ability to promote its unique traditional flavors and create modern fusions that push the limits of international culinary delights.

Peru’s Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism described this promotion of Peruvian cuisine as a form of branding Peru’s culture. He was quoted saying, “From its agricultural products to the food offered in its restaurants, both are means of knowing Peru and the Peruvians… Peruvian food is now a brand because of the dreams of those visionaries that said we had to promote Peruvian gastronomy.”

As Peru emerges as a culinary star, gastronomy tourism has become a huge hit for visitors to Lima, Arequipa, the Amazon and Cusco. Because each region has its own culinary heritage, it is possible to sample completely different flavors each evening of your trip in fine dining restaurants as well as in small family venues.

Aji de gallina, ceviche, guinea pig, alpaca steaks, stuffed hot peppers and lomo saltado are all must-tries when visiting the country. Be sure to also slice into a selection of the many exotic fruits such as cherimoya, mana fruits and pepinos after sampling a few of the 4,000 potatoes produced in the rich soil of the Andes.

The international food festival, Mistura, is a great event to do just this. Held in September this week-long event promotes everyone from fine dining restaurant gurus such as Mitsuharu Tsumura (Maido) and Astrid and Gaston (Astrid & Gaston) to local food stand entrepreneurs such as Tia Gramanes’s Anticuchos. Locals stand in the same lines as devoted foodies to shop for produce, enjoy food seminars and sample some of Peru’s greatest treats.

All of this promotion to ‘brand’ Peruvian cuisine has clearly paid off, with Peru once more under the attention of UNESCO. This time is not for the country’s world heritage sites, but for its food. Peru’s culinary diversity is now a candidate to receive the UNESCO title of “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.”

Who would have thought the humble potato and guinea pig would ever reach such heights.

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Maureen Santucci

Huayna Picchu is a peak that is only accessible from Machu Picchu. Most people who climb it only go up to the top and back the same way. While not much of a challenge for someone who has just done the Inca Trail, it’s a particularly nice excursion for someone who has taken the train into Aguas Calientes. It also offers some stunning views of the citadel.

As awesome an observation point as it makes, for me it’s not the highlight. I was lucky enough to have a friend tell me that you can actually loop around and go down another way. After doing this my first time around, I have made it a point to do so every time since.

This is definitely the best way to scale the peak. Every time I have done the loop, I’ve passed no more than a dozen other people. Once I’m up and over onto the other side, it’s my Huayna Picchu.

The journey to the top of Huayna Picchu is challenging in itself, being a steep climb up some occasionally treacherous stone steps. On the way, there is a sign to the left that points in that direction for the Temple of the Moon and the Great Cavern. This is where you come back onto the path when you do the loop.

This side is has a much wilder feel to it. As you follow a trail that leads through the trees and underbrush, you can feel the age of the vegetation around you. It’s easy to imagine that you’ve traveled in time and an Inca warrior or perhaps a priest could be just around the corner. The lack of other people allows you to melt into that feeling and really be at one with your thoughts and with the land.

An occasional wooden ladder down the side of a rock gives you that Indiana Jones feeling. It’s not really dangerous but you are definitely reminded that this is not Disneyland, there are no guiderails and you are here at your own peril. It’s an invigorating feeling, one that you don’t often get to feel in the so-called civilized world.

After hiking through the woods for a while, you find yourself at the Great Cavern and Temple of the Moon. Maybe it’s just because I actually get to be alone in these sites but they almost feel more magical to me than Machu Picchu. It’s amazing to be able to sit and meditate in an ancient site like this without hearing the clicking of multiple cameras.

I always spend a bit of time here, soaking up the energies of the place and to catch my breath for the trip back. It always seems to take forever, probably because I’m leaving the temple behind. But before long I return to Aguas Calientes; not much more than a stone’s throw from my tranquil peak but a different world at the same time.

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Silas Quinn

To an outsider, the 2011 Peruvian presidential elections seemed a bit like a circus gone awry. Up and down the country from north to south, every building, wall, lamppost from coast to coast was covered with the names of the candidates. It will probably take until the 2016 elections to repaint all the buildings.

Giant stuffed hamsters, (the mascot PPKuy for Pedro Pablo Kuczynski) dance though the streets. Accusations of affairs and clandestine political partnerships, and name calling runs rampant through the media. One congressional hopeful even let leak nude videos of herself on the Internet. In Lima, the streets and highways are littered with signs, giant banners, and 30 foot tall cardboard cutouts of candidates.

The elections were held on April 10^th. According to the constitution, to win a candidate must achieve an absolute majority. In the event that a candidate does not win 50 per cent of the votes in the preliminary round, a run-off round is held. And because every registered Peruvian citizen is required by law to vote, the candidates have their work cut out for them fighting for the vote of the working, lower income majority. For one brief moment every five years, poor Peruvians have an influence on the powers and people that govern their country.

It is probably for that reason that the nationalist Ollanta Humala, with his fierce fire-brand politics and close association with Latin America’s left wing leaders, ended up coming first – although not with an absolute majority.

There were five major candidates looking to replace the current president Alan Garcia, as well as 130 congressional spots that are up for grabs. Alejandro Toledo, Ollanta Humala, Pedro Pablo Kuczynski, Keiko Fujimori, and Luis “Lucho” Castañeda.

The results themselves became a close-run contest between Humala, Keiko and Kuczynski. Toledo’s poor showing was the main surprise of the day, and many moderate centrists now blame him for splitting the vote away from Kuczynski and allowing the more radical Humala and Keiko take first and second place.

The run-off vote, now scheduled for June 5^th and will present a showdown between left wing Ollanta and the more conservative, law & order focused Keiko. For many metropolitan Peruvians who have become accustomed to the pro-market, steady growth policies of the Garcia administration and who are now facing uncertain times.

Meanwhile, in the poor and deprived communities of rural Peru, most people will be celebrating. These are the heartlands for radical candidates, where the people have historically taken the brunt of civil unrest and terrorism, state-sponsored violence, stagnating living standards and rising prices. Whether or not their lots will change with the radical new government that has become inevitable, only time will tell.

Maureen Stanucci

It was my second visit back to Peru and it felt like coming home. One of the things I hadn’t been able to do on my first trip was to go to the jungle as it was the middle of the rainy season. I planned to rectify that on this journey if at all possible.

A watery scene in the Peruvian Amazon

One of the first friends I had made in this country was an Ayahuasca-drinking cowboy. As he had land someplace around Manu and sometimes led trips to the area, I decide to enlist his help in making a private less-touristy visit to the area. It was definitely an adventure, although not precisely in the way I’d expected.

He picked me up early at my hostal and we took a taxi to the bus station. In this case, that meant the curbside in front of a small bodega. He had brought along bikes for us to use in the jungle. Awesome! Without anything to tie them on top of the bus. Not so much. It was at this point that I started to get the idea that my buddy was not quite as organized as I might have liked. And to admire the Peruvian resourcefulness of the people who worked on the bus. And to miss my Inca trail guide. Not for the last time.

By the time the bike situation finally got sorted out, I was more than ready to get on the bus so that we could all get going. As were the rest of the passengers. It was at this point that my “guide” mentioned that his flashlight wasn’t working and he wasn’t sure if it just needed new batteries. I have extra… get on the bus!

The ride was around ten hours on a bumpy trail undeserving to be called a road. It was hot, dusty dry and – next surprise – my guide hadn’t brought any water for himself. I share. And miss my Inca Trail guide. Again.

We arrive at our destination in the middle of the jungle where there is a perfect spot for viewing the Gallitos de las Rocas, the Cocks of the Rock, national bird of Peru. This was where we intended to be spend the night. Ummm… except for one thing. My guide had not booked us a hostal and there were very few in the area.

This actually turned out to be one of the better mistakes that my friend had made. We ended up negotiating to sleep on the floor in a local man’s house. Dumping our packs, sleeping bags and bikes on the dirty old wooden floor, we headed out to see the Gallitos.

Although they are called cocks, and do sound somewhat like roosters, they look more like a type of parrot. It was a treat to get to see them in their habitat, as there aren’t many locations where it’s possible. We also got to see various monkeys, the first time I’ve ever seen them in the wild. I never had much interest in seeing them behind cages but watching them jumping around in the trees was truly something special.

As the sun was going down, we made our way back to our lodging for the night. When we had met our host earlier, he mentioned working at the hostel next door. He was wearing old shabby clothing, with pant legs that were more ripped than sewn together. The house consisted of one large room and a couple of small bedrooms. All in all, it was a very simple bare-bones type of dwelling.

I settled myself down into my sleeping bag early but was quite interested to hear the conversation that my friend and the owner of our shelter were having. As they conversed, I was amazed to hear that the man had recently sold quite a bit of the surrounding land and still had more to his name.

When you consider the increase in tourism and the interest in creating places for them to go in the jungle, surely he must have made a fair amount of money on the sale. And yet, he continued to work for someone else and nowhere could you see the evidence of that income. I could only imagine that in a bank someplace his heirs were earning interest.

That was my first experience with this situation and one that I continue to encounter here in Peru. You never know when the poorest looking people may actually have a fat bank account that they just have no interest in touching. For them, their way of life has been good enough all this time and they see no reason in changing it.

The following morning, we were greeted with fresh caught trout for breakfast. It was hard to see what was wrong with a life that started the day out with that kind of treat. After our delicious breakfast, we headed out to the next town on our mountain bikes.

It was a trip that was to continue much the way it had started, as my friend’s bike broke down while I was several kilometers ahead of him with the repair kit in my backpack. Despite the hiccups, though, I wouldn’t trade my trip to the jungle for any standard tourist package. It’s those unlooked for experiences that really make for memories.

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Maureen Stanucci

With Machu Picchu being a UNESCO World Heritage site and celebrating the 100th anniversary of its rediscovery by Hiram Bingham, it’s no wonder that Peru is one of the top 10 for world tourism. As more and more people are coming here, they are discovering what a bargain destination it is. Generally speaking, once the airfare to get here is paid for, everything on the ground is quite reasonable.

View over Machu Picchu, a classic Peru travel scene

It is a particularly welcome spot for travelers from the United States as it is relatively close, compared to the trip from other continents. Once here, the dollar goes much farther than it would in a trip, say, to Europe. This makes it possible to see a lot more for the money as well as to spend more time traveling around.

Many people don’t realize quite how large the country is until they start to plan their trip. It’s easy to spend three weeks just touring the Southern Circuit of Peru. In addition to Cusco and Machu Picchu, many will then head to Puno to visit Lake Titicaca, the highest inhabited lake in the world.

Following Lake Titicaca, one can head to the Colca Canyon, a sight to rival the Grand Canyon of the United States and also a location where one can often view condors. After that, one can spend a day or two in Arequipa before heading to Nasca to do a fly over the enormous ancient figures etched into the desert.

If all this isn’t enough, there’s also the jungle to visit and, in the north of Peru, one can spend some time at the beach or head to Huaraz and the awesome beauty of the Cordilliera Blanca mountains. Peru boasts some of the most diverse geography of any country in the world including mountains, beaches, desert and jungle.

The increase in tourism is something that will need to be monitored closely by the government, however. Every year, there are rumors that Machu Picchu will be restricted to tourism to avoid the site being damaged by the influx of people. While that may be true, it also is too important an attraction to afford closing it down. Without Machu Picchu, many less people might be inspired to visit the country at all.

There is also the danger that other areas will not only lose their charm but also have the environment harmed by expansion trying to make money from the tourist trade. A proposed airport outside of Cusco, in Chinchero in the Sacred Valley, has met with much protest. While this would undoubtedly bring more business to the area, it may also end up destroying the landscape that attracts visitors in the first place.

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Catriona Spence

As Lima is the second largest desert city in the world, you probably wouldn’t expect there to be many parks. However, there are numerous green areas as well as a few hidden gems in San Isidro and Miraflores, not forgetting the world’s largest fountain park in central Lima.

If a quiet or romantic place away from the popular tourist centres is what you are after, head to Parque el Olivar in San Isidro. In colonial times, this was part of an olive plantation, but now it is a gem of a park nestled away in a residential area within Lima’s buzzing business centre.

Lima's Parque el Olivar

Declared a national monument in 1959, this park not only offers tranquillity but is also home to over 30 species of birds. Situated just a few blocks to the west of Avenida Arequipa, it is only a short micro ride from Miraflores.

Joggers frequent Lima’s parks and a great place to escape to if you are a keen runner is Parque Mariscal Ramón Castilla in Miraflores. Hidden away off Ricardo Palma and away from traffic fumes, this park is nearly always quiet and has a footpath encompassing it as well as many criss-crossing the centre, making it a great place to run. It is very easy to get to, just a few blocks from the Miraflores Wong on Avenida Benavides. From here, go up República de Panamá to the next main intersection, Ricardo Palma. Turn right and then take the first left to reach the park.

Parque de la Reserva is one of Lima’s most highly recommended attractions and it not only entered the Guinness World Records for being the world’s largest fountain park but also for having the tallest fountain in a public park. From Wednesdays to Sundays (and also on National Holidays) this landscaped park comes to life with coloured lights illuminating its thirteen fountains.

Whilst you can just admire the fountains, many children and adults alike enjoy walking through the fountain Túnel de las Sorpresas, ‘Tunnel of Surprises’ or running in amongst the many smaller jets of water that form the fountain Laberinto del Ensueño, ‘Labyrinth of Daydreams’. The laser light show held at 7.15pm, 8.15pm and 9.30pm every night at the Fuente de Fantasía, ‘Fountain of Imagination’ is not to be missed. Located only a few minutes walk from the Metropolitano station Estadio Nacional, ‘National Stadium’, it is very easy to get to. The entrance fee is just four soles (under 5’s free) and opening times are 12pm until 11pm with last entrance at 10.30pm.

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By Catriona Spence

Food. It has to be one of the best things about Peru as there are so many national dishes to choose from. And trying new, regional, dishes isn’t that part of the experience of travelling? On a recent trip to Tacna, I did exactly that.

Having found a local restaurant offering a set lunch menu, I asked for the local dish. She asked me if I liked ‘mondongo de res’. Ah ‘res’, I knew that was the word for beef.

Mondongo - looks tasty enough but make sure you know what you're ordering

Yes, great I said, my favourite. I was excited. Beef, I hadn’t eaten beef since leaving England; it would make a nice change to chicken. But I should have thought that it wouldn’t be what I was imagining as I was only paying 3 soles for the entire three course meal. A few minutes later and a dish called Picante a la Taceña was put in front of me. It sure smelled good, but where was the beef? It turned out the beef was in fact cow’s stomach. Well, I had understood the right animal at least. With the woman watching me, I forked through the dish trying to pick between the mondongo and make sounds that showed her I liked the food, while all I could think was why hadn’t I learn that word in Spanish class?

Food aside, Tacna was however pleasantly surprising. On arriving the first thing I noticed was how clean, green and quiet it was. Was I still in Peru? Where were the micros and combis that should be racing around the streets? I decided to wonder around, and the main square was the obvious place to start. Looking like a typical traveller, map in hand, I discovered there was no square on the map. Where had it disappeared to? I soon realised that Tacna is indeed totally unlike all other Peruvian cities and does not have a main square, but rather a triangular shaped central area. No one could tell me why, but after my unfavourable lunch experience, I was definitely warming to this city; it was different.

The reason why I travelled to Tacna was, like many, to cross the border to allow me to extend my stay in Peru. Having done similar before at other border towns, I was surprised at how fun this border crossing was. I relived my childhood, riding a rickety, old, wooden train across the border. To top it off, it was unusually hassle free. Just hand over your form, hop on the train, fill out the Chilean immigration form on board and walk straight through at the other side. No long queues, no needing to find your way between the two respective immigration offices; it is all dealt with in the train stations. Perfect.

In a few months time when I need to cross the boarder again, I will definitely choose Tacna, but I’ll be sure to steer clear of mondongo.

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Peruvian cuisine has become world renowned. In the past few years, its popularity has exploded, and this once unknown style is finding its way into restaurants all over the world. Peruvian claim to culinary greatness is due mostly to the diversity of climates and people that exist within the country.

Peru boasts the Andes, the Amazon, and a long stretch of coastline which combine to make the country a gourmand’s paradise. The many different climates mean that plenty of fresh and delicious ingredients are available, while the diverse cultures and population provides a wonderfully mixed palate.

A plate of fresh cebiche - one of the most typical and popular dishes in Peru

The origins of Peruvian cuisine can be found in the mix of Spanish and indigenous cuisine, accented by a diverse group of immigrants from China, Africa, and Japan.

Rice, peppers, corn, and potatoes are the staples, although they are often seasoned in surprising ways and have a different taste than you may be used to.

The most common corn in Peru, called choclo, has large kernels and isn’t sweet like its smaller cousin popular in the United States and Europe. Corn is also used to make Chicha, a sweet fermented drink that is popular in the many small family restaurants that adorn the country’s cities and towns.

Cuisine can vary greatly depending on the region of Peru but Criollo, which can be found along the coast and in the capital of Lima, is what people usually think of when they imagine Peruvian food.

Seafood is a mainstay of Criollo cuisine, and the variety and quality can hardly be found elsewhere; expect it to be dressed simply, highlighting the flavor of the meat.

Cebiche, for example, is the quintessential Peruvian dish: raw fish or shellfish marinated in lemon juice and spicy peppers, served with sweet potato, corn and raw onion. Both refreshing and delicious, cebiche is the most popular seaside lunch option during Peru’s long summers.

There are many great related dishes that serve up variations on this theme such as tiradito, a spicier version of cebiche which is sliced thinner, and served without onions.

There are also many non sea food dishes accompanied by rich sauces with complex flavors.

A popular favorite in Lima is anticuchos, skewers of marinated beef heart, served with potato and the obligatory hunk of corn.

Among the other top dishes is Aji de gallina, another famous Peruvian dish consisting of strips of chicken in a creamy and spicy yellow sauce, usually served over potato and accompanied by rice.

Lomo saltado, on the other hand, is a Chinese inspired stir-fry of beef and vegetables served over rice that is also extremely popular.

While there are many fine restaurants that serve up gourmet Peruvian food, often with a flair for fusion, some will tell you the best place to get traditional Peruvian cuisine is in one of the small restaurants that permeate the country and serve delicious fixed menu lunch specials for a fraction of the price.

What makes Peruvian food so great is its adaptability; it can spar with the finest cuisines in the world, and also seem entirely at home on a simple kitchen table.

Backstreet Bites in Lima

Looking for somewhere a bit more authentic? Try some of these unusual recommendations during your stay in town.

For a unique cebiche & seafood restaurant, head to la Canta Ranita (the Singing Frog), tucked away at the back stalls of Barranco market, on Jr Union. This place gets packed to the gills for lunch, so aim to arrive by midday or expect a long wait. They’re closed on Tuesdays.

The anticucherias around the plaza de Surco are all excellent, and well worth a visit. If you’re not squeamish about offal, consider ordering a parrilla – a personal-sized grill delivered straight to your table and laden with cuts of beef, pork and chicken.

Walking into the center of Lima you will pass countless food vendors in the street. Choclo con queso (corn with cheese), anticuchos and papa rellena (stuffed potato) are all delicious and will prove no problem for travel-hardened stomachs.

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