Your Peru Guide

Peruvian cuisine has become world renowned. In the past few years, its popularity has exploded, and this once unknown style is finding its way into restaurants all over the world. Peruvian claim to culinary greatness is due mostly to the diversity of climates and people that exist within the country.

Peru boasts the Andes, the Amazon, and a long stretch of coastline which combine to make the country a gourmand’s paradise. The many different climates mean that plenty of fresh and delicious ingredients are available, while the diverse cultures and population provides a wonderfully mixed palate.

A plate of fresh cebiche - one of the most typical and popular dishes in Peru

The origins of Peruvian cuisine can be found in the mix of Spanish and indigenous cuisine, accented by a diverse group of immigrants from China, Africa, and Japan.

Rice, peppers, corn, and potatoes are the staples, although they are often seasoned in surprising ways and have a different taste than you may be used to.

The most common corn in Peru, called choclo, has large kernels and isn’t sweet like its smaller cousin popular in the United States and Europe. Corn is also used to make Chicha, a sweet fermented drink that is popular in the many small family restaurants that adorn the country’s cities and towns.

Cuisine can vary greatly depending on the region of Peru but Criollo, which can be found along the coast and in the capital of Lima, is what people usually think of when they imagine Peruvian food.

Seafood is a mainstay of Criollo cuisine, and the variety and quality can hardly be found elsewhere; expect it to be dressed simply, highlighting the flavor of the meat.

Cebiche, for example, is the quintessential Peruvian dish: raw fish or shellfish marinated in lemon juice and spicy peppers, served with sweet potato, corn and raw onion. Both refreshing and delicious, cebiche is the most popular seaside lunch option during Peru’s long summers.

There are many great related dishes that serve up variations on this theme such as tiradito, a spicier version of cebiche which is sliced thinner, and served without onions.

There are also many non sea food dishes accompanied by rich sauces with complex flavors.

A popular favorite in Lima is anticuchos, skewers of marinated beef heart, served with potato and the obligatory hunk of corn.

Among the other top dishes is Aji de gallina, another famous Peruvian dish consisting of strips of chicken in a creamy and spicy yellow sauce, usually served over potato and accompanied by rice.

Lomo saltado, on the other hand, is a Chinese inspired stir-fry of beef and vegetables served over rice that is also extremely popular.

While there are many fine restaurants that serve up gourmet Peruvian food, often with a flair for fusion, some will tell you the best place to get traditional Peruvian cuisine is in one of the small restaurants that permeate the country and serve delicious fixed menu lunch specials for a fraction of the price.

What makes Peruvian food so great is its adaptability; it can spar with the finest cuisines in the world, and also seem entirely at home on a simple kitchen table.

Backstreet Bites in Lima

Looking for somewhere a bit more authentic? Try some of these unusual recommendations during your stay in town.

For a unique cebiche & seafood restaurant, head to la Canta Ranita (the Singing Frog), tucked away at the back stalls of Barranco market, on Jr Union. This place gets packed to the gills for lunch, so aim to arrive by midday or expect a long wait. They’re closed on Tuesdays.

The anticucherias around the plaza de Surco are all excellent, and well worth a visit. If you’re not squeamish about offal, consider ordering a parrilla – a personal-sized grill delivered straight to your table and laden with cuts of beef, pork and chicken.

Walking into the center of Lima you will pass countless food vendors in the street. Choclo con queso (corn with cheese), anticuchos and papa rellena (stuffed potato) are all delicious and will prove no problem for travel-hardened stomachs.

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It can be difficult to get a week off from work to go on a much needed vacation. But there is no reason with today’s travel infrastructure to write off a four day getaway.

The beautiful Sacred Valley is a definite must-see during your trip

Recently it has become cheaper to fly internationally than it is to fly domestically. Take a four day trip to Peru for example. Round trip flights from the United States can be as low as $450.00. In a four day trip to Peru you can visit Lima, Cusco the Sacred Valley and the famed World Wonder of Machu Picchu.

If this idea has caught your attention, here are a few tips if you plan a four day trip to Peru.

It is generally best to take red eye flights so that you do not loose an extra day traveling. When you land in Lima you can jump on a morning connecting flight to Cusco and start exploring the center of the Inca Empire that afternoon. You will most likely need to take it slow due to the altitude change so stick to an easy ½ day group tour or just wander the beautiful streets, visit the Cathedral, Qoricancha, Sacsayhuaman and the art riddled streets of San Blas.

On day two, take the train to Machu Picchu for a day at these breathtaking ruins re-discovered by Hiram Bingham. You will certainly want to stay until the park closes to ensure you have a camera full of panoramic views of one of the most beautiful places on earth.

On the evening of day two, it is best to take a train to the Sacred Valley and stay overnight in the Sacred Valley.

That way on day three you can wake up early and visit the military ruins of Ollaytantambo and the adorable village of Pisac and its famous artisan market. If you choose to do a private guided tour, it is possible to also add in a visit to Maras, Moray and/or Chinchero before returning to Cusco for your final night in the Andes.

Most flights go out of Cusco before noon. On day four, fly to Lima early, leave your luggage at the storage center at Lima airport and travel into the city before your night flight back.

Although it is certainly possible to take a group tour, you may want to consider a private guide/driver to pick you up/drop you off at the airport. Each tour will take you to El Centro, where the Spanish colonials ruled the Americas from. You will also visit Huaca Pucllana, a set of ruins built in the 5^th to the 8^th century and located in the modern district of Miraflores.

It will be a great contrast to your visit to the ultra modern Larcomar Mall built into the sides of the cliffs and the Park of Love over looking the blue waters of the Pacific. Enjoy an early dinner with the sunset before you head back to the airport to return to reality the following day.

While planning your South America travel experience, take a look at these tours to South America for some inspiration.

It can be difficult to put together an itinerary for a trip, with connections and arrangements that work properly and make the most of your time. This is especially true in Peru where many domestic flights only leave early in the morning but international flights land late at night. Here is a mock itinerary that takes full advantage of your time if you are interested in visiting Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Amazonian town of Puerto Maldonado.

Street scene in Cusco, a highlight for any Peru tour

Many flights arrive closer to midnight on day one, but if you are one of the lucky few that gets on a red eye flight landing in the morning on day one, get settled into a Lima hotel and explore the city. It is best to do a guided tour due to the sheer size of the city. If you do not get a chance on day one, you will also have time on day eight to visit Lima.

On the morning of day two you should take a flight to Cusco. Spend the morning relaxing on the main square over coffee and adjust to the altitude. After a light lunch jump on an organized tour that will show you all the main highlights of the city. This will give you your bearings and may help you decide what part of the city you would like to return to for dinner. Wake up early and try to get on the first train to Machu Picchu for a full day of exploration of the site. This World Wonder is a fascinating depiction of life of the Inca aristocracy as well as a breathtaking experience of the semi-tropical section of the Andes before these mountains drop down into the Amazon rainforest. In the evening return to Cusco so that you can enjoy a full day in Cusco (or the Sacred Valley) on day four.

On day five, you will need to get to the airport very early to arrive in Puerto Maldonado for your Amazonian experience. Clients are collected at the airport by their lodge representatives and transported to the Tandapata River for a river journey to their jungle lodge where you will stay for three nights. Each lodge has its own amenities, spas, guides and daily activities for guests so you will have more than enough options to trek through the forest, kayak on the river, visit local villages and search the night waters for caiman. On day eight you will have an early boat journey back to the town of Puerto Maldonado for your flight to Lima. When you arrive in Lima, it is possible to leave your luggage in the secured storage area and return to Peru’s capital to visit a museum, take a tour or just relax and enjoy your last few hours in this dynamic country.

While planning your South America travel experience, take a look at these tours to South America for some inspiration.

Eleven days isn’t a lot of time to see all the great sites in Peru and the Galapagos, but it is possible to see some of the principal ones. It’s important, therefore, that you use your time wisely. For quick trips, it’s often best to go with the traditional tours rather than try to break out on your own.

View over Machu Picchu, a classic Peru travel scene

For example, while in Lima, you can take the Lima City Tour. This will include a walking tour so that you are able to get a feel for the city. You will also tour the Convent of San Francisco where you can view some beautiful treasures from colonial times, as well as visit the subterranean catacombs. This is a half-day tour, giving you plenty of time to sample some of the truly outstanding food this city has to offer. The ceviche, in particular, is not to be missed.

You’ll want to travel to Cusco, as this is the jumping off point for trips to Machu Picchu, a place that will obviously be on your list to see. In Cusco, the City Tour will take you to some of the principal historical sites, including the Cathedral where you will see works from native artists; Koricancha, built on top of an Inca Temple of the Sun and Sacsayhuaman, a truly awe-inspiring example of Incan architecture.

The next morning, you can head out on the Sacred Valley tour. This will take you to the impressive Incan archaeological sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, generally stopping for typical Peruvian food in Urubamba. The tour will head back to Cusco from Ollantaytambo, stopping in Chinchero on the way. If you are short for time, you may want to leave the tour at Ollantaytambo, taking the train to Machu Picchu that night or the following morning. This should be booked well ahead of time so you are sure to get the train you want.

If possible, it’s recommended to take the tour of Machu Picchu first thing in the morning when it’s less crowded. Therefore, taking the evening train from Ollantaytambo is a good idea. The tour of Machu Picchu normally takes two hours, after which you can wander around on your own or hike Huayna Picchu, a nearby peak that gives stunning views of the citadel of Machu Picchu.

You’ll have to head back to Lima to travel on to Ecuador for a tour of the Galapagos. This is often done by cruise, and there are typically four day, five day and eight day options. For the shorter journeys, you will generally choose between the Southern or the Northern loops. The Southern will give you more opportunity to view wildlife while the Northern is known particularly for the landscapes.

Planning your South America travel experience? Click here for a range of tours to South America.

Traveling with young children abroad can be a challenge. If you are considering a trip to Peru, here are six recommendations to make your life a lot easier. These tips will focus on the two best places to take your children, Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Cusco, the pinnacle for many peoples' luxury Peru travel experiences

When you arrive in Cusco, it is best to rest at your hotel in the morning before taking an easy afternoon tour of the city. This will not only give you a sense of the city, let your children release some energy but also allow you to visit the ruins surrounding the city as well as the Cathedral and the Temple of the Sun.

When eating on a budget, steer clear of hotel restaurants and try a restaurant that offers a set priced menu instead of ordering al la carte. Keep you first few meals light because your digestion will function differently at this altitude.

Many children will not want to walk long distances, so try to stay in a hotel that is located within a few blocks of the Plaza del Armas. Casa Andina is a great choose. They only charge for breakfast for children while other many other hotels will charge the child as a guest. Taxis are very inexpensive so if your family does get tired, it will not break the bank.

In Peru, privately guided tours are inexpensive especially groups of 4 or more. Consider spending a few extra dollars to have a few private tours with your family. The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu are two locations that this makes sense. First, you will be able to move at your own pace and have someone cater to your family’s interests. Secondly, your family can better engage, learn and enjoy the sites without chasing a group being herded around. The result will be your children getting more out of the experience then in a mixed group situation.

When you visit the sites of the Sacred Valley, it is best to spend the night in there instead of returning to Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu. The train from the Sacred Valley is roughly half as long as it is from Cusco. There are many hotels ranging in price in the Sacred Valley and the Machu Picchu area that have pools and activities to keep kids occupied and happy when they are not exploring the ruins and markets of Peru. While visiting the Sacred Valley, take your kids to the Pisac Market and let them explore Ollaytantambo. Ask your guide to visit an alpaca farm so the children can feed the animals and learn about llamas and alpaca too.

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Shopping could easily be mistaken as a national pastime in Peru, especially in its capital city, Lima. Locals and tourist alike can be found browsing the high-end brand name retailers one day and shopping in local mom and pop shops another. You can find just about anything in this South American city including imported comfort foods and familiar home goods. The challenge is finding the best bargains the city has to offer. Here is a quick guide to finding the right items quickly in the many markets scattered across the city at an affordable price. At all of the below mentioned, it is possible to haggle on prices, so be sure to freshen up on your negotiation skills before you head out.

Typical Peruvian artisanal crafts

Artisan goods

If you are looking for a quick gift that screams Peru the lines of artisan market shops of the Mercado Indio just off of Ricardo Palma Avenue in Miraflores is the place to go. Here you can pick up trinkets from all over the country at a reasonably cheap price. But if you are in search of a higher quality gift it is best to either walk along the artisan shops on La Paz Avenue or to visit one of the many folk art boutiques in Barranco.

Electronics

If you are in Miraflores and looking for electronic parts, software or DVDs it is best you head to Compu Palace just two blocks from Parque Kennedy. This building houses dozens of small specialized kiosks. If you are in search of electronics as well as other miscellaneous goods it is better to make a visit to the ‘official’ black market, Polvos Azules, in La Victoria en route to El Centro.

Produce Markets

Every district in the city has its own fresh produce market although they vary greatly in size. The market of Surquillo is closest to the main area of Miraflores and is only a few minute walk from Parque Kennedy (on the far side of the Via Expresa). Surquillo market is larger than the Miraflores market but certainly not the largest in the city. Regardless, the market is clean and relatively comprehensive. Over time if you make friends with your favorite merchants, you will likely pay less for your produce due to your loyalty as a customer.

Another great location to visit is the Chorillos flower market. Here you will find flowers brought in from all over the country. The selections are always fresh and vibrant and it is worth visiting if only to enjoy the fragrant atmosphere.

While planning your stay in town, explore the following range of Lima hotels and Miraflores hotels

For most travelers visiting Peru, the outdoor activities on offer in Lima are often hidden in the shadows by the extensive list of thrilling highlights that the rest of the country has to offer.

This is a shame because the Lima region has a huge collection of great hiking and nature walks on offer, many of which are easily accessible from the traveller-friendly downtown districts of Miraflores and Barranco.

Green hills in Lima - a rare site at Lomas de Lucumo

Although it is rare that  visitors ever see the mountainous eastern city limits during their stay in Lima, it is surprisingly easy to get out of town and explore the countryside on the city’s doorstep.

One perfect example are the rolling, green hills of Lomas de Lúcumo. These seasonal trails located 35 kilometers south of Lima are slowly growing in popularity.  The main gate to the park is located only a few minutes drive away from the Panamerican Highway.

The entrance is in an adorable village painted with cheerful murals of birds, animals and flowers that can be found in the Lomas from August until October.

But why only during these months?

The Lomas are a unique ecosystem created by a natural phenomenon.  The marine layer that hangs over the city of Lima during the winter months hits the mountain side and condenses, irrigating the land with sufficient humidity to allow the abundant blooming of green vegetation, flowering plants and even small trees.

As you walk from the village up the trails, the barren dusty sands are taken over by lush green foliage and wild flowers.  As you reach the top, the clouds become denser until visibility is limited to just a few meters, giving the whole place an ethereal, almost spooky, feel.

With some luck the clouds will lift long enough for you to get a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean, the desert coast, and the blossoming Lomas- all from within the clouds – a moment worth all the effort of escaping the city.

During these months it is not uncommon to spot vizcachas, foxes, hawks and many other small mammals, birds and butterflies.  If enjoying the trails and the wildlife spotting is not enough adventure for you, you can always use the cliffs for rappelling, explore the caves found through out the park and do some rock climbing during your visit.

One of the best part about hiking at Lomas de Lúcumo is that the entrance fee is only 3.50 Soles which is roughly $1.25.  You are given a complementary map of the trails with helpful hints of things to see and visit.

Another advantage for those of you under time constraints is that it is possible to visit the Lomas de Lúcumo on the same day you visit of the Pachacamac ruins located only a few kilometers away.

So, the next time you hear someone say that Lima should be skipped, tell them otherwise.  In fact Lima has many hidden treasures, and Lomas de Lúcumo is only one of its diamonds in the rough.

Getting To Lomas de Lúcumo

For those who are accustomed to Lima’s frenetic pace, and with a reasonable grasp of Spanish, getting public transport to Lomas is perfectly easy. Simply make your way to the junction of the Panamerican Highway with Avenida Benavides (combi buses depart for this direction from the main avenue in Miraflores). This spot is known as Puente Benavides, and is from where all south-bound buses depart.

Wave down a bus signed “Pachacamac” and let the conductor know you’re heading to Lomas de Lúcumo. From the point you get off it is a short mototaxi journey to the park entrance.

Otherwise it should cost no more than 20-30 soles in a taxi.

This guide to escaping Lima for the green hills of Lúcumo was written for En Peru Blog on behalf of Casa Andina, a leading chain of Peru hotels with a collection of three unique Lima hotels.

Peru’s Sacred Valley is a glorious landscape steeped in history, dotted with astonishing ruins and packed with fascinating cultural outposts from an ancient era.

The Valley’s beauty is encouraging more and more travelers to head out of Cusco and spend one or more nights in this tranquil and relaxing environment. There are a huge number of accommodations available, but for a genuinely unique experience, consider the Casa Andina Private Collection Sacred Valley.

A night in the Sacred Valley makes a good Cusco hotels alternative

This ‘mountain chalet-styled retreat’ offers the luxury of a full service spa, gourmet dining, and stylish rooms with stunning panoramas of the Sacred Valley. An on site domed planetarium and observatory for stargazing is a unique feature to this hotel allowing you to explore the skies of the Southern Hemisphere all evening.

During the day you can choose from one of the many activities for families and/or adventure lovers that the hotel offers. Whitewater rafting, trekking and mountain biking can be arranged for those seeking outdoor fun. The hotel can also help organize cooking classes, yoga lessons, textile and ceramic courses as well as half-day and full-day tours to the surrounding ruins.

Many of the guests who choose to stay in the Sacred Valley for a few days enjoy visiting the amphitheater-like terraces of Moray, the salt pans of Maras, the mighty ruins of the fortress at Ollantaytambo as well as the bustling Andean markets and peaceful ruins of the town of Pisac. Conveniently located a few minutes from the town of Ollantaytambo, it is also possible to enjoy a full-day or overnight trip to the World Wonder of Machu Picchu.

Although this 85 roomed gem of a hotel has an excellent location for exploring the Inca treasures found throughout the Sacred Valley there is no need to wander far. Eight acres of manicured gardens in the shadows of the majestic Andes mountain range surround the hotel. With a gym, handicraft and gift shops, on site jewelry stores, children’s playground, a fully stocked bar and a billiards and game room that doubles as a TV lounge, you will be more than happy to just relax and enjoy the hotel resources. This hotel is truly unique because it really does meet the needs of every type of traveler.

For more information on visiting the Sacred Valley, Cusco or Machu Picchu, contact a reputable provider of quality tours to South America.

The vast, shimmering Lake Titicaca is rightfully celebrated as one of Peru’s top travel destinations, but there is only one Lake Titicaca hotel that can offer a truly unique experience.

Imagine stepping off a speed boat at a hotel onto a private island of beautifully manicured gardens to a main reception area decorated by local art. After you are formally welcomed you are guided to your room, suite or private cottage.

Visit the Uros Islands before arriving at your Lake Titicaca hotel on Isla Suasi

Your door is opened to reveal a fresh and clean room made of rustic local materials with breath takings views of the Lake. But this isn’t a dream. This is Casa Andina’s Luxury Private Collection Isla Suasi, located on the only private island on Lake Titicaca, in the Puno region of Peru.

Not only does this hotel offer the highest standards of luxury, it does so without leaving a carbon foot print. Casa Andina Isla Suasi was designed, constructed and decorated by celebrated professionals to be fully powered by solar energy. Traditional materials are used to conserve heat and each room is outfitted with chimneys lit at night by staff members to ensure the comfort of guests on the chilly Lake Titicaca evenings.

Your luxury Lake Titicaca experience begins long before you arrive at the hotel. After being greeted at the docks of the Casa Andina Private Collection Puno by your boat captain, you will first cruise to visit the Uros Islands.

Upon arrival you will be introduced to a unique culture of people who live on man made reed islands that float on the lake. After visiting with the kind and colorful locals of the Uros Island you will make one last stop to meet the Alsuno community located on Taquile Island.

This community of weavers host customs that are in sharp contract to those found on the Uros Islands. You will most certainly enjoy the hospitality and company of the locals and the wealth of culture you will encounter. Your morning of learning about the customs, traditions and history of the people of Lake Titicaca will come to a close as you take one final boat journey to the private Isla Suasi, arriving just in time for lunch.

The Isla Suasi Lake Titicaca hotel is perfect for enjoying the lake's profound tranquillity

After settling in to your room you will have the option of eating in the gourmet restaurant featuring the many flavors of Andean cuisine or you can request to have specialty pizzas made in the artisan clay oven.

Following lunch you are welcome to relax and acclimate to the altitude by laying in a hammock or you can visit the cultural hut and library, enjoy the bar and game salon, schedule a massage, unwind in the sauna, sit by the lakeside BBQ pit or take part in one of the many activities Casa Andina has available to you. Canoeing, boating and nature walks are among the most popular daytime activities.

In the evening you can enjoy a candle lit dinner before stargazing and enjoying the nightly bonfires along the lakeshore. Mornings will welcome you with a custom omelet bar and a full breakfast buffet to fuel you for another day of activities or leisure. Your experience at the Casa Andina Luxury Private Collection Isla Suasi will set a new standard of gastronomy and luxury travel.

For more information on staying at Isla Suasi, take a look at the trips and itineraries offered by this specialist in high quality South America tours.

Not more than ten hours drive from Lima and I was in a different world to the busy and grimy city I had left behind me. With the thin mountain air demanding deep breaths and the 1am cold working its way through several layers of clothing I stepped out of our hired combi and onto the cobbled streets of Huancaya.

Still within the Lima region, Huancaya is a tiny settlement tucked away in the central Andes. A land of puna grasslands, stark valleys and, its most famous attraction, stunning cascades of thundering water as the Río Cañete pours its way from the snowcapped mountains towards the Pacific Ocean several hundred kilometres downstream.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

The falls outside of Huancaya are particularly impressive. The river broadens out and forms a series of steps, ordered almost as though they’d been deliberately carved by the forces of erosion over the millennia. A long and ancient stone bridge crosses the falls and leads towards an ancient trail that follows the valley upstream and into the mountains.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

As the valley levels off the river begins to flow more calmly, occasionally welling up to form lagoons and lakes of various sizes. Some no more than small pools, others as large as vast man-made reservoirs.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

The river picks up pace again as the trail leads to another small settlement that dates to pre-Inca times, Vilca.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

Even up in the mountains, the upcoming elections are never far from sight. This young campaigner uses her horse to reach voters living away from paved roads.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

The falls at Vilca are as impressive as those at Huancaya, drawing crowds of bathers from the surrounding communities and travellers come to spend a weekend away from Lima. This local woman in traditional headwear watches day trippers enjoying the ice cold waters on a sun-baked day.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

Locals compare election fliers. It’s not yet clear who the horses are voting for.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

Following the trail back down to Huancaya, the river is peppered with occasional falls hidden by the steep valley. The falls are spectacular enough to warrant clambering down the hillsides to get a closer look.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

In Huancaya, the village’s sole evening entertainment is the nightly community bonfire. Youngsters strum old Andean songs on modern guitars and their sisters sing along. The crowd passes around bottles of a warm cocktail, Calientito; a potent mix of pisco, syrup and honey.

Photograph: Your Peru Guide 2010

The people of Tupe speak a unique language, distantly connected to Aymara, and no relation to either Quechua or Spanish. The existence of this foreign language (mostly spoken in Bolivia) is an ancient throwback to the Inca system of moving populations around their empire to prevent any ethnic group becoming settled and powerful.

Getting to Huancaya requires a 10 hour drive from Lima, either booked with a local tour operator or on public transport. Buses leave every Saturday from the San Juan de Yauyos terminal in San Luis (4pm) or the Bus Reyes terminal in La Victoria (6:30pm).

There are plenty of basic hostels and hospedajes in Huancaya, cold water and large shared rooms are the norm, but all will serve good, hot food and are guaranteed to offer friendly, local service.